Summer romance in Shimoda

Not long after my last trip to Nagano, less than a week in fact, I decided to plan another trip to visit my parents in Kansai, and then to the beautiful seaside town of Shimoda. My partner, who currently lives in Europe, was visiting me for a month, and his one request was a trip to the sea. After spending a few nights at my family’s home in Kansai enjoying my stepmother’s cooking and cooling off in the pool, we headed back towards Tokyo to start our weekend beach trip. We took the shinkansen from Osaka to Atami, a beachside vacation town that had its heyday in the late 80’s, and rented a car to drive down the coast of the Izu Peninsula to our ultimate destination of Shimoda. The drive is beautiful with winding roads with sweeping views of the sea, and the fresh sea salt breeze and immediately melts away any stress.

Before we set off on our journey south, we stopped at the Atami Museum of Art which houses a vast collection and array of traditional Japanese art and crafts. The museum itself is an interesting piece of architecture that’s built into the hillside with panoramic views of the sea from nearly every vantage point. We leisurely walked through the galleries appreciating the tradition and history steeped in each piece, and took some time in the surrounding gardens to enjoy some matcha and Japanese sweets. Anywhere I go, I always love visiting art museums. I think there’s no better way to really see what a culture values, and to experience their point of view through beautiful works of art. And I feel so proud to be from an ancient culture that has a very rich and beautiful artistic heritage.

After getting our dose of culture for the day, we finally set off on the two hour drive down to the tip of the peninsula. The drive was very easy and enjoyable, and the time passed quite quickly. We arrived at our destination just as the sun was beginning to set, and we the the beautiful golden hour light as we pulled into our accommodations. I found a cosy looking villa on AirBnB that had an outdoor sauna, and I thought it was perfect for a romantic weekend getaway. It felt so private and warm, it was exactly what we needed after spending so much time with friends and family. Before heading out for dinner at a local seafood spot, we cranked up the sauna so it would be ready for us when we got back.

As a seaside town, Shimoda, as well as the larger region, is known for their seafood, and the restaurant we chose for dinner did not dissapoint. From shrimp to fresh abalone, fried fish, and sashimi, we feasted on the freshest, most delicious local seafood prepared only in the way you can enjoy in Japan. Although the restaurant was not far, it was off in a secluded part of town on the edge of the sea, and it felt so dark and remote. After enjoying a beautiful meal, we returned to our villa to fully relax and enjoy the sauna before getting a delightfully restful night of sleep.

We woke up to a beautiful sunny morning, and it was perfect for a day at the beach. After getting ready, we drove out to Kisami Ohama and enjoyed a healthy lunch based on Chinese herbal recipes run by very cute and friendly woman just next to the beach. After lunch we laid in the sun, stood in the water fighting against the strong waves, and explored the rock caves surrounding the area. Although it was still very warm, there was nearly no one else at the beach and it felt like we had it to ourselves. I don’t know what it is about being next to a large body of water, but there is something so calming about it, and something that reminds me of how small I am in this world.

After a few hours at the beach, we drove to some nearby attractions like a cave, some sand dunes, and an outlook. Being on the most southern tip of this big peninsula and looking out over the cliffs across the ocean, it really feels like you’re on the edge of the earth. For thousands of miles, aside from a few tiny coastal islands, there’s just vast ocean. It’s intimidating and somewhat frightening, but exciting. We finally reached the final outlook point as the sun was setting and it was beginning to get dark, but there was something so fun about running through the trails and amongst the rocks with the man I love, making our way to the cliffs where we shared a special moment just appreciating each other’s presence. It’s moments like this that make me so grateful for what I have in my life.