A spiritual journey through Mexico
Although it wasn’t my first time to Mexico, the last time I came was on a family vacation when I was in elementary school to Puerto Vallarta where we hardly left the resort, so this very much felt like a new experience for me. This trip was also special because it was supposed to happen in the spring of 2020 after I finished business school, but, well… you know what happened. Needless to say, it was long awaited, and I couldn’t wait to actually experience Mexican culture.
My first stop was Oaxaca, and it immediately struck me as a charming and historic city with rich cultural roots. The city is built on a grid, with most buildings being only one or two stories. I had the privilege of staying at Casa Oaxaca, a quaint and relaxed boutique hotel that was historically a private home. I love the way the building was centered around a courtyard of which each of the suites is situated, encouraging interactions with other guests and the staff who were extremely friendly—one even spoke a little bit of Japanese.
The first day of sightseeing started with a visit to Monté Alban, a mountaintop site with Zapotec ruins. I especially love visiting places of cultural significance especially when they have some ritualistic or spiritual connotation. When I quiet my mind and really focus on my surroundings, I try to tap into the energy that can be felt there and try to imagine the lives of the people who built this place and lived here. Did they think about the things that I think about now? What were their hopes and dreams? With the clouds rolling over the mountain and a light rain, it felt especially magical.
After the Zapotec ruins was lunch in the countryside at a place that serves caldo de piedra or stone broth. It’s a delicious soup of local seafood and herbs in a broth that is heated by dropping a hot stone directly into a handmade bowl that contains the soup. As soon as the stone drops in, it immediately starts boiling and cooks the soup to perfection. The owner of the shop explained that the soup originated with the indigenous population and pre-dates Spanish colonialism. I find it beautiful how these traditions are maintained and passed from generation to generation through food, which I think can be such a spiritual practice.
Next was a visit to Hierve el Agua, a beautiful nature reserve with naturally occurring springs that visitors can swim in. It’s high in the mountains and took quite a long bumpy drive on unpaved roads to get to, but the views were worth it. Although it is a tourist attraction, it was surrounded by natural beauty, and allowed me to feel connected to nature and remember how small I am in the world. I could also see fields of agave plants on the mountain sides that were being grown and harvested to make mezcal.
The following day, I visited Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, the cathedral located in the center of the city. Because of a wedding, I was unable to explore the interior of the cathedral in depth, but from what I saw it was BEAUTIFUL. From the outside, it isn’t overly ornate or intricate, but the interior of the main chamber was extremely opulent and decorative. Although I don’t subscribe to any particular religion, I love visiting spiritual places of all kinds because these places really hold a lot of energy that is palpable, and no matter what people believe, I know we are all revering the same divine source that animates all of life, and the beauty and care people put into this reverence moves me everytime.
My last dinner in Oaxaca was at Criollo, a modern take on Oaxacan cuisine produced by Chef Enrique Olvera, and was probably the best meal of the trip. The ambience was relaxed but intentional, with the space blending interior and exterior spaces in a seamless way that made me feel like I was visiting someone's home. The meal was delicious and featured locally sourced ingredients and dishes steeped in local tradition, like molé. I think this was my first introduction to real molé, and you can taste the rich culture and history in the complex and intriguing flavors.
My next stop was Mexico City, and I was surprised by how big it was. Coming from Tokyo and having lived in New York for 10 years, I am very familiar with the feeling of being in a big city, but I was impressed with the expanse of Mexico’s capital. It’s also a very beautiful city that mixes modern urban developments with Spanish colonial influence all on top of an ancient Aztec city. The thing I find most beautiful about Mexico is its melding of past and present, indigenous and colonial, all resulting in a colorful and rich cultural landscape of which I know I have only scratched the surface.
I stayed at Casa Polanco, a beautiful boutique hotel in the high-end neighborhood of Polanco, which I learned was historically a Polish neighborhood, hence the name. It was one of the best hotels I have stayed at in recent history. Their attention to detail from the service to decor to amenities was really top notch. The staff was extremely friendly and made me feel very much at home. This hotel was also historically a private home and combined with a modern building to create the hotel that it is today. I only wish I had more time to enjoy all the amenities like the gym & spa. If you have the opportunity to stay here in Mexico City, I highly recommend it. You won’t be disappointed.
Being a Saturday night, I decided to check out the local nightlife and see what the city had to offer. I considered going to an area with several gay bars, but given that I don’t drink alcohol, I thought it might feel awkward to try and socialize with the local gays while sipping a sparkling water. (It was also quite far from my hotel.) Instead, I found a DJ event at a club much closer to my hotel, Club Fünk, located in nearby Condesa. The party was called Boyanza, seemed queer-friendly, and the music sounded like it might be my taste. I was not disappointed. The space itself was pretty cool with interesting lighting design around the DJ booth, and the music was very danceable, mixing house, techno, and other electronic music. Although I didn’t meet anyone, the vibes were good and I felt completely comfortable dancing and enjoying myself.
The next day was a visit to the Metropolitan Cathedral and the ruins at Zocalo. Again, the cathedral was very beautiful both inside and out, and you can really feel the history contained in its walls. What was even more amazing were the ruins of Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital before the arrival of the Spanish. To imagine what lies beneath the modern city of Mexico City and what it would have looked like before the Spanish arrived is amazing. It’s a shame how much must have been destroyed during the colonial era, but I was so glad that remnants of this ancient culture survive to this day despite the horrors of colonialism.
Outside the cathedral were indigenous shamans offering cleansing rituals, and I was immediately drawn to one of them and participated in the experience. Anytime I am able to participate in a new spiritual ritual, especially one that doesn’t come from a Judeo-Christian background, I am always very eager and excited. The ritual consisted of the shaman enveloping me with the smoke from some burning herbs while he chanted, and then cleansing my hands with some kind of herbal water that smelled fresh and citrusy. I wish I knew more about the significance of the ritual and the beliefs of this shamanic tradition, but either way I was grateful for the experience.
The next place of significance I had the privilege of visiting was Frida Kahlo’s house. Having always been interested in art for its own sake as well as as a spiritual practice, I was so happy to be visiting the home of such a significant and celebrated artist. My main point of context for Frida Kahlo was the movie about her life in which she was played by Selma Hayak, and I was so glad to learn more about her life in the place where she spent so much of her time. Although it seems she suffered a great deal in her life, her work has always impacted me as deeply thoughtful, spiritual, reflective, and of course beautiful. Walking through the rooms of where she created so much beauty, I could feel her spirit and was so grateful for the experience.
The next day, I visited Teotihuacan and was so impressed by the expansive complex of pyramids and courtyards that make up this special place. What amazes me about these places is their exact alignment to celestial bodies, and how much knowledge and expertise it took to build these places without modern technology. When I was in college, I had a phase of being obsessed with Ancient Aliens on the History Channel, and places like this were mentioned many times. Although I’m not sure if I believe the alien conspiracies, finally being able to visit this place in person was so impactful, like being transported back hundreds of years.
As food has always been a central part of my travels, I always try to go to the most renowned restaurants anywhere I visit, so this trip would not have been complete without a visit to Pujol. As this trip was years in the making, I felt a lot of anticipation for finally being able to visit, and experience what is supposed to be the height of Mexican cuisine. My first impression is that the decor is very comfortable and modern, but inviting. Although the overall experience was good and I even got to meet Chef Olvera, it wasn’t the best meal of the trip. I’m sure there is a reason they have Michelin stars and have been named one of the best restaurants in North America, but it may be based more on past reputation than the current offering. I don’t think I would go back, but I definitely don’t regret dining there.
The last stop of my journey was the Mayan Riviera where I stayed at the Rosewood Mayakoba. Tucked away in a jungle of mangroves along the beach, this expansive resort felt very comfortable from the beginning. Each room feels like its own little villa and has a sense of privacy while still being accessible to all the amenities contained within the resort. I immediately headed to the beach area and lounged in the sun. The water was crystal clear blue and the perfect temperature for cooling off and floating leisurely, and I felt immense gratitude for being in such a beautiful place. I didn’t have a lot of time to spend around the resort because of a tight schedule, but I would love to go back some day and fully unplug.
The final day of the trip, I visited Chichen Itza, the most well preserved and in my opinion most beautiful pre-colonial place of cultural significance. Although it was extremely hot and there were many other tourists, the beauty and grandeur of the temple complex was almost breathtaking, and I could really feel the immense energy of this sacred place. There were so many different kinds of buildings used for many different purposes that gave a sense of what life must have been like back when this ancient society was thriving, and again I tried to center myself and drop into this immense sacred energy.
Visiting such a beautiful and complex place like Mexico was so much more than I expected before I went. Mexico being a neighbor to the US where I spent most of my life, I thought there would be more similarities, but I was pleasantly surprised to see a much more rich and diverse culture that has better preserved its indigenous origins. Being able to visit so many historic and sacred places built throughout time, I’m reminded of the expanse of time and space in the universe, that there are many significant moments in time throughout the world and throughout history, but these places and moments were all created by other humans like me, just going about their lives as spiritual beings having a human experience. I most definitely want to return to Mexico someday and see more of this incredible place.