Kei Furuichi 11/21/24 Kei Furuichi 11/21/24

Jeju: An Island Escape

Korea only being a quick 2 hour flight away from Tokyo, it’s an easy and popular destination for a lot of people that live in Japan. I’ve been to Seoul 3 times, and each time I found myself getting a more nuanced view of what Korea is like beyond what I see in Korean dramas and movies (which I’ve been known to binge from time to time). Having shared a long history (most of it tumultuous) with Japan, there are a lot of similarities between the cultures and the languages. But the more I visit, the more I’ve been able to experience the rich culture, and this time visiting Jeju Island, I got to see another, more relaxed side of South Korea.

I have a group of friends in Tokyo that, like me, really love to eat so we made a dining group that meets around once a month to discover a new restaurant or cuisine that we wouldn’t normally go to. This time, we decided to make a whole international trip out of it. One member of the group is half-Korean and his grandmother was gracious enough to let us stay in her home in Jeju, so we jumped at the opportunity to go for a little escape from Tokyo.

There’s something about visiting Korea that doesn’t even feel like I’m leaving the country it being so close, and this time felt even more so. On a clear day, they say you can see Jeju Island from Kyushu. I always feel a sense of reassurance and ease when I’ve visited Korea, and this time was no different. I think there’s also something about visiting an island destination that immediately puts me in a relaxed state of mind.

Although it was already late October, it was quite warm when we landed. We rented a couple cars and drove from Jeju City to Seogwipo, a smaller city on the opposite side of the island where our accommodations were. My first impression as soon as we got out of the main city was how lush and green the landscape was with winding roads through near mystical forests, and it felt almost enchanted. I was excited for what the week had in store.

We got really lucky with weather on the first day with beautiful sunny blue skies. We walked to our first meal of the day, a family-run blowfish hotpot restaurant. It was delicious, and the waiter was really hot. There’s something about young Korean men, maybe because they’re all required to do military service, but they’re all very fit and take good care of their appearance, or that’s my impression at least.

After lunch, we walked towards the harbor and visited Cheonjiyeon Falls, a beautiful waterfall in the middle of a lush green park. Although it’s walking distance from the main part of the town, it feels like you’re deep in nature, and it was a nice introduction to the natural beauty Jeju has to offer. After the waterfall, we walked towards the coast and across a bridge that takes you to a small nature reserve. The view out to sea and of the volcanic rock coastline was breathtaking.

That afternoon, we walked around the town and explored the local market, as well as stocked up on some Korean skincare goods at Olive Young. I wasn’t aware of this store, but my friends were well versed and introduced me to all the must-haves. They have literally anything you could think of, and I was overwhelmed with the selection. I stuck to what I knew and got a bunch of face masks calm and hydrate my skin.

Later that night, we went to a boiled pork restaurant run by a family friend of our host. She had a very outgoing personality, which it seems like a lot of people in Jeju had, and she even spoke some Japanese. She colorfully explained to us the best way to eat the boiled pork, and it was definitely a unique experience. Although I liked it, some of the cuts of pork were very fatty, and still had a thick layer of gelatinous skin on it which I wasn’t a huge fan of.

After dinner, we stopped by an adorable café that turns into a wine bar at night. While my friends bonded with the owner over wine, I indulged in some blackberry cheesecake and local herbal tea which was delicious. I started to get tired and headed back to the apartment early, doing one of my face masks before heading to bed.

The next day was kind of rainy and gray in the morning so we had a bit of a lazy start before heading to lunch which was chilled noodles and BBQ pork. (So much meat!) Although there were only six of us, we probably ordered enough to feed 10 and ate almost everything. Since we rented two cars and had a lot of different options of activities, after lunch we decided to split up and do the activity that we found more interesting. Me and two others decided to go to Yakcheonsa Temple, a Buddhist temple about 20min drive away.

Anytime I visit somewhere new, I love to visit spiritual places, no matter what kind of philosophy they might be apart of. Korea being a majority Christian country, there were churches everywhere, but I was excited to find a Buddhist temple which is more my vibe. Compared to a lot of Buddhist temples in Japan, this one was relatively new, and very colorful both on the exterior and interior.

Japanese temples tend to me more austere and understated, focusing on the materials and the craftsmanship of the building, while this temple was ornately painted in vibrant colors all over the place. Still, you could see the mutual influences Korea, China, and Japan had on each other by the fundamental design principles employed in the architecture, and it was beautiful in it’s own way. We explored the multiple levels, looking at the frescoes that illustrated the life of the temple’s founder, and wandered through the surrounding gardens before moving onto our next stop.

Not too far away from the temple, there’s a lookout point on the coast that’s on a pebble beach surrounded by volcanic rock formations. By this time the sun had come out, and we ventured along the beach to explore. The beach being entirely rocks and pebbles, it was really hard to walk and maintain balance, and you could easily sprain an ankle if you’re not careful. It was windy, but there was something about the coast that felt magical. I think because volanic rock comes from deep inside the earth, they must hold a lot of power, and that power is palpable in Jeju.

Later in the afternoon, we reunited with our friends at the Bonte Museum which houses both historical Korean art and artifacts as well as more contemporary international artists like Yayoi Kusama. I finally got to see one of her famous installations, The Infinity Room, and was mesmerized by the infiniate lights and mirrors. It really makes you feel like you’re floating out in space, and it allowed me a little moment of reflection, and how art can make us experience things that can’t be explained in words.

While wandering through the rest of the exhibits, we stumbled upon an installation piece that really moved me. It was an immersive experience that took up an entire room, and there was a sculpture of a lone tree that had projection mapping and sound that brought it to life. It illustrated the cycle of life from birth, to growth and maturation, juxtaposed with images and videos from the artist’s life, and ultimately ended in the death of the tree and something that resonated with me as ascension into a higher dimension. It really showed the fleeting nature of like and how ephemeral time is, and it really made me grateful for my own life and experiences, and made me appreciate the present moment.

The next day was rainy and gray, so one friend and I decided to book massages on the other side of the island. It was a bit of a drive, but it was nice to see the lush landscape throughout different parts of the island. The spa itself was near the coast and had a nice view overlooking the water. The massage itself was great, and I felt so relaxed. On the way back home, we stopped by an outlet mall and I got some new yoga wear and gifts for my baby nephew.

Another reason for this trip was to go to a beauty clinic and get some treatments done. Korea is well known, especially in Japan, for having the best (and very affordable) beauty treatments in Asia. After another delicious local lunch, we headed off to our afternoon at the clinic. I got botox, which I’ve done many times before, as well as a fat-dissolving injection under my chin, and a skin booster that contains salmon DNA that is supposed to induce collagen production and improve your skin’s appearance. It was the most painful experience of my life, but the results were worth it.

Since Jeju is well known for it’s nature, I really wanted to do more nature activities and visit some well known natural spots, but because of weather and the other activities that we prioritized, the last day was the only time we had. Luckily, there was a well known nature trail very close to where we were staying, and it did not disappoint. Two of us took a taxi out to one of the furthest points along the trail, and started back towards the town on the trail. Almost immediately we were greeted with sweeping views of the coastline and volcanic cliffs surrounded by lush nature. The trail itself wasn’t too challenging and was the perfect dose of fresh sea air. It’s times like this that I truly feel grateful to be alive and to be where I am, and I know I will be back to experience more.

Watch my trip:

See how I packed for my trip:

Kei Furuichi 9/20/24 Kei Furuichi 9/20/24

A spiritual journey through Mexico

Although it wasn’t my first time to Mexico, the last time I came was on a family vacation when I was in elementary school to Puerto Vallarta where we hardly left the resort, so this very much felt like a new experience for me. This trip was also special because it was supposed to happen in the spring of 2020 after I finished business school, but, well… you know what happened. Needless to say, it was long awaited, and I couldn’t wait to actually experience Mexican culture.

My first stop was Oaxaca, and it immediately struck me as a charming and historic city with rich cultural roots. The city is built on a grid, with most buildings being only one or two stories. I had the privilege of staying at Casa Oaxaca, a quaint and relaxed boutique hotel that was historically a private home. I love the way the building was centered around a courtyard of which each of the suites is situated, encouraging interactions with other guests and the staff who were extremely friendly—one even spoke a little bit of Japanese.

The first day of sightseeing started with a visit to Monté Alban, a mountaintop site with Zapotec ruins. I especially love visiting places of cultural significance especially when they have some ritualistic or spiritual connotation. When I quiet my mind and really focus on my surroundings, I try to tap into the energy that can be felt there and try to imagine the lives of the people who built this place and lived here. Did they think about the things that I think about now? What were their hopes and dreams? With the clouds rolling over the mountain and a light rain, it felt especially magical.

After the Zapotec ruins was lunch in the countryside at a place that serves caldo de piedra or stone broth. It’s a delicious soup of local seafood and herbs in a broth that is heated by dropping a hot stone directly into a handmade bowl that contains the soup. As soon as the stone drops in, it immediately starts boiling and cooks the soup to perfection. The owner of the shop explained that the soup originated with the indigenous population and pre-dates Spanish colonialism. I find it beautiful how these traditions are maintained and passed from generation to generation through food, which I think can be such a spiritual practice.

Next was a visit to Hierve el Agua, a beautiful nature reserve with naturally occurring springs that visitors can swim in. It’s high in the mountains and took quite a long bumpy drive on unpaved roads to get to, but the views were worth it. Although it is a tourist attraction, it was surrounded by natural beauty, and allowed me to feel connected to nature and remember how small I am in the world. I could also see fields of agave plants on the mountain sides that were being grown and harvested to make mezcal.

The following day, I visited Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, the cathedral located in the center of the city. Because of a wedding, I was unable to explore the interior of the cathedral in depth, but from what I saw it was BEAUTIFUL. From the outside, it isn’t overly ornate or intricate, but the interior of the main chamber was extremely opulent and decorative. Although I don’t subscribe to any particular religion, I love visiting spiritual places of all kinds because these places really hold a lot of energy that is palpable, and no matter what people believe, I know we are all revering the same divine source that animates all of life, and the beauty and care people put into this reverence moves me everytime.

My last dinner in Oaxaca was at Criollo, a modern take on Oaxacan cuisine produced by Chef Enrique Olvera, and was probably the best meal of the trip. The ambience was relaxed but intentional, with the space blending interior and exterior spaces in a seamless way that made me feel like I was visiting someone's home. The meal was delicious and featured locally sourced ingredients and dishes steeped in local tradition, like molé. I think this was my first introduction to real molé, and you can taste the rich culture and history in the complex and intriguing flavors.

My next stop was Mexico City, and I was surprised by how big it was. Coming from Tokyo and having lived in New York for 10 years, I am very familiar with the feeling of being in a big city, but I was impressed with the expanse of Mexico’s capital. It’s also a very beautiful city that mixes modern urban developments with Spanish colonial influence all on top of an ancient Aztec city. The thing I find most beautiful about Mexico is its melding of past and present, indigenous and colonial, all resulting in a colorful and rich cultural landscape of which I know I have only scratched the surface.

I stayed at Casa Polanco, a beautiful boutique hotel in the high-end neighborhood of Polanco, which I learned was historically a Polish neighborhood, hence the name. It was one of the best hotels I have stayed at in recent history. Their attention to detail from the service to decor to amenities was really top notch. The staff was extremely friendly and made me feel very much at home. This hotel was also historically a private home and combined with a modern building to create the hotel that it is today. I only wish I had more time to enjoy all the amenities like the gym & spa. If you have the opportunity to stay here in Mexico City, I highly recommend it. You won’t be disappointed.

Being a Saturday night, I decided to check out the local nightlife and see what the city had to offer. I considered going to an area with several gay bars, but given that I don’t drink alcohol, I thought it might feel awkward to try and socialize with the local gays while sipping a sparkling water. (It was also quite far from my hotel.) Instead, I found a DJ event at a club much closer to my hotel, Club Fünk, located in nearby Condesa. The party was called Boyanza, seemed queer-friendly, and the music sounded like it might be my taste. I was not disappointed. The space itself was pretty cool with interesting lighting design around the DJ booth, and the music was very danceable, mixing house, techno, and other electronic music. Although I didn’t meet anyone, the vibes were good and I felt completely comfortable dancing and enjoying myself.

The next day was a visit to the Metropolitan Cathedral and the ruins at Zocalo. Again, the cathedral was very beautiful both inside and out, and you can really feel the history contained in its walls. What was even more amazing were the ruins of Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital before the arrival of the Spanish. To imagine what lies beneath the modern city of Mexico City and what it would have looked like before the Spanish arrived is amazing. It’s a shame how much must have been destroyed during the colonial era, but I was so glad that remnants of this ancient culture survive to this day despite the horrors of colonialism.

Outside the cathedral were indigenous shamans offering cleansing rituals, and I was immediately drawn to one of them and participated in the experience. Anytime I am able to participate in a new spiritual ritual, especially one that doesn’t come from a Judeo-Christian background, I am always very eager and excited. The ritual consisted of the shaman enveloping me with the smoke from some burning herbs while he chanted, and then cleansing my hands with some kind of herbal water that smelled fresh and citrusy. I wish I knew more about the significance of the ritual and the beliefs of this shamanic tradition, but either way I was grateful for the experience.

The next place of significance I had the privilege of visiting was Frida Kahlo’s house. Having always been interested in art for its own sake as well as as a spiritual practice, I was so happy to be visiting the home of such a significant and celebrated artist. My main point of context for Frida Kahlo was the movie about her life in which she was played by Selma Hayak, and I was so glad to learn more about her life in the place where she spent so much of her time. Although it seems she suffered a great deal in her life, her work has always impacted me as deeply thoughtful, spiritual, reflective, and of course beautiful. Walking through the rooms of where she created so much beauty, I could feel her spirit and was so grateful for the experience.

The next day, I visited Teotihuacan and was so impressed by the expansive complex of pyramids and courtyards that make up this special place. What amazes me about these places is their exact alignment to celestial bodies, and how much knowledge and expertise it took to build these places without modern technology. When I was in college, I had a phase of being obsessed with Ancient Aliens on the History Channel, and places like this were mentioned many times. Although I’m not sure if I believe the alien conspiracies, finally being able to visit this place in person was so impactful, like being transported back hundreds of years.

As food has always been a central part of my travels, I always try to go to the most renowned restaurants anywhere I visit, so this trip would not have been complete without a visit to Pujol. As this trip was years in the making, I felt a lot of anticipation for finally being able to visit, and experience what is supposed to be the height of Mexican cuisine. My first impression is that the decor is very comfortable and modern, but inviting. Although the overall experience was good and I even got to meet Chef Olvera, it wasn’t the best meal of the trip. I’m sure there is a reason they have Michelin stars and have been named one of the best restaurants in North America, but it may be based more on past reputation than the current offering. I don’t think I would go back, but I definitely don’t regret dining there.

The last stop of my journey was the Mayan Riviera where I stayed at the Rosewood Mayakoba. Tucked away in a jungle of mangroves along the beach, this expansive resort felt very comfortable from the beginning. Each room feels like its own little villa and has a sense of privacy while still being accessible to all the amenities contained within the resort. I immediately headed to the beach area and lounged in the sun. The water was crystal clear blue and the perfect temperature for cooling off and floating leisurely, and I felt immense gratitude for being in such a beautiful place. I didn’t have a lot of time to spend around the resort because of a tight schedule, but I would love to go back some day and fully unplug.

The final day of the trip, I visited Chichen Itza, the most well preserved and in my opinion most beautiful pre-colonial place of cultural significance. Although it was extremely hot and there were many other tourists, the beauty and grandeur of the temple complex was almost breathtaking, and I could really feel the immense energy of this sacred place. There were so many different kinds of buildings used for many different purposes that gave a sense of what life must have been like back when this ancient society was thriving, and again I tried to center myself and drop into this immense sacred energy.

Visiting such a beautiful and complex place like Mexico was so much more than I expected before I went. Mexico being a neighbor to the US where I spent most of my life, I thought there would be more similarities, but I was pleasantly surprised to see a much more rich and diverse culture that has better preserved its indigenous origins. Being able to visit so many historic and sacred places built throughout time, I’m reminded of the expanse of time and space in the universe, that there are many significant moments in time throughout the world and throughout history, but these places and moments were all created by other humans like me, just going about their lives as spiritual beings having a human experience. I most definitely want to return to Mexico someday and see more of this incredible place.