I've been meditating wrong for years
Meditation has always been a struggle for me—I’m not going to lie. I always liked the idea of meditation as being part of my self-concept; I identified as someone who meditates, or at least likes the idea of meditation, because in all honesty it didn’t really become a regular practice of mine until quite recently. And although it’s taken me years to become someone who does actually meditate, I have found it to be very beneficial in a variety of ways, some unexpected, and I hope to share my experience here in the hopes that it may help you on your meditation journey.
Being born in Japan, I was exposed to the concept of buddhism at a very young age. Although it’s an integral part of Japanese culture, most Japanese people would probably not identify themselves as especially religious people, and I felt the same. Visiting a Buddhist temple is just something you do, for important life events like funerals, or when visiting a new place when traveling domestically. From studying the world’s major religions in school, I also had an idea of what Buddhism was as a belief system, and I have to say many of my personal beliefs align.
But how am I supposed to incorporate these Buddhist ideals into my everyday life? Do I have to give up all my worldly possessions, become a vegetarian, and relegate the remainder of my life to that of an ascetic? This is my polar extreme opposite way of thinking that I think prevented me from taking smaller, more manageable steps in integrating some Buddhist practices in my daily life. And to be fair, meditation isn’t only a Buddhist practice, but this was my early understanding of it. I liked the badge of claiming it as part of my identity without the hard work of actually practicing.
Things began to change when, as many people in their mid-late 20’s do, I had a quarter-life crisis and moved across the world from New York City back home to Tokyo where I hadn’t lived since I was 8 years old. This transition was simultaneously inspired and spurred on by a deep sense of discontentment that launched me headfirst into a spiritual awakening and journey that I am still on today, and will be for the rest of my life. I discovered that changing my external circumstances without addressing the underlying causes or ways of thinking in myself may lead to momentary cessation of these feelings of lack, but ultimately they will come back.
When I realized that I was the problem, not the place I’m living or the people I’m around or anything else external, I began to consume many books, podcasts, etc. on the topic of self-help, self-improvement, spirituality, wellness, and the like. And with this concept of mindfulness, the practice of meditation kept being brought up over and over again by all the spiritual teachers I was hoping to learn from. So I decided to take another look at what meditation meant for me, and what it could look like.
I had a yoga phase when I first moved to New York, and I have on many occasions reached a blissful flow state where I was extremely present in the moment with my body and my breath, and disconnected from the constant stream of thoughts that usually animate our daily internal monologues. And it felt great. From what the spiritual teachers were describing, this was my closest reference and what I would aim for. But that was much easier said than done.
To get started, I tried a guided meditation app that would gently prompt me to move through a short 5-10minute meditation practice, and it was great! I realized that in a sense, I was trying to meditate all wrong for years, and that’s what defeated my efforts before they really started. Here’s what I learned about meditation, both from the many people I’ve listened to speak on the matter, as well as through my own experience.
Trying to clear your mind is not the purpose of meditation.
This kind of blew my mind. The way Buddhism had been explained to me in school, it was about these monks who devote their lives to trying to reach “enlightenment” which was described as a complete detachment from suffering. The way in which these monks reach enlightenment was through meditation, which is a complete clearing of the mind. But that is the biggest misconception. You may reach a state during meditation in which your mind is clear, but setting out to achieve that as a goal, and judging the outcome as bad when you inevitably find your mind filled with thoughts, will set you up for failure.
The way to truly meditate is to witness the mind without becoming identified with thoughts.
This took a while for the meaning to really sink in. But when you really think about it, the true cause of our suffering is thoughts. Thoughts are stories our minds tell us about reality, about our life, and when reality doesn’t match up with these stories we’ve told ourselves, we feel a sense of unease, discomfort, injustice, inadequacy, self-loathing, and the list goes on. But we can create gaps in these incessant thought spirals by sitting still, quietly, and witnessing these thoughts with our full attention, without believing them. That last part is the most important one.
We don’t have to believe our thoughts just because we’re having them. The point of meditating is to witness these thoughts, acknowledge them, and then let them go without judgement or reaction. And when we can do this on a regular basis, it helps us maintain a bit more presence in our daily lives, and maybe help us make decisions from a place of calm, non-judgement than from our ego minds.
Meditating can bring us more in touch with the universe’s divine energy.
This might be a bit woo woo for some people, but I believe it to be true. I believe that we are all spiritual beings having a human experience, but the matter of this physical world is dense. Inhabiting a body in physical space on this earth makes our experiences more concrete and definable, but I also think it limits what we can perceive greatly. In identifying with a physical body, and relating to the world in this way, we rely on what we can hear, touch, see, smell, and taste. But there is so much more out there that is beyond what meets the eye, and only when our minds and bodies are completely still, can we get a taste of that energy.
There’s a saying I like that goes “beyond the clouds there’s always blue skies”. In this metaphor, our mind is the sky and thoughts are clouds. The thoughts are inevitably going to come. But what if we just let them be rather than getting bogged down in them? We can enjoy the blue sky. If we approach our inner relationship with ourselves as a practice of allowing stillness, sitting with ourselves as we are, and making this a integral spiritual practice in our daily life, I believe there’s no challenge we can’t surmount, no obstacle we can’t overcome.
I’m definitely not perfect, so my meditation practice definitely won’t be as well. But what I can say is that the more I meditate, the more I show up for myself to create space, the more in-tune I feel with the universe’s creative energy, and the more at peace I feel within myself. And my only with is that you can experience this for yourself too.
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How spiritual practices changed my life
My path to spirituality came from a place of deep pain and suffering. I’m not going to sugarcoat it—I was having a tough time and not feeling good about myself. But what made these feelings especially difficult to deal with was the fact that there was nothing external that I could point to that was wrong in my life. I was generally in good health, had good relationships with my friends and family, had a decent job and was living a comfortable lifestyle where, although I wouldn’t say I was rich, I did not have to worry about my basic needs being met, and could do the things I wanted to for the most part.
But still, this underlying feeling of discontentment, insecurity, lack of inspiration, and feeling of emptiness persisted no matter what I did. To make things worse, the behaviors I was engaging in to subconsciously try and fill this hole inside myself were actively making the situation worse. The unhealthy foods I was indulging in were deteriorating my health and worsening my own body image, the alcohol and other substances I was using were worsening my anxiety and chipping away at my feeling of self-worth. Even my relationships with the ones I loved, although at many times my saving grace, started to feel at times performative and I could feel myself withdraw.
I knew that if I was every going to be happy, let alone survive, I needed to change my behaviors, and to change my behaviors, I needed to change my way of thinking. This is around the time that I discovered spirituality, and my internal world began to change. From a young age, I think I always knew that there was something more to life than what meets the eye. I can’t point to any specific experiences in childhood that made me believe this, but I think there was a deeper sense of knowing that I gradually lost sight of as I became an adult, and became so deeply engrained in the existence of this physical world.
But as I discovered the world of spirituality, my view of existence began to open up again, and the things that were weighing on my mind didn’t feel as heavy as they once did. I would get momentary glances of what it felt like just to be present, not completely lost in my negative thought patterns, and in a place of calm and stillness. The more media I consumed around health, wellness, and spirituality, the more I became inspired to integrate practices into my daily life in order to maintain this more balanced head space. And this is where my own spiritual practices began to develop and persist to this day.
The first, and probably most accessible, practice that I began to do was journaling. Although it might seem simple, taking a few minutes out of my day to just write down whatever is going on in my head at that moment was huge in allowing me to get some space from my thoughts and see them from a more objective perspective. So much of what is swirling around in our heads at any moment can be amorphous thoughts entangled with emotions, memories, and our own projections on reality, and being constantly in that head space can feel overwhelming. There’s something about forming those thoughts into words and physically writing them down on paper that can clear that mental clutter, and allow you to look back at what you wrote down from a more objective standpoint where you can question what is factually true, what isn’t, what’s helpful, and what’s harmful. Just recognizing some of these patterns in your own thinking can have a transformative affect in creating healthier thought patterns.
The second practice that I’ve integrated into my daily life is meditation. Much like journaling, the practice of meditation allows you some time and space to observe your body and your mind, and ultimately connect to the deeper life force that is animating us all. Meditation can seem difficult at first, as I know I thought it was. Stilling still with my own thoughts seemed like a scary proposition especially after years of suppressing or ignoring how I felt altogether. But the more I was able to not identify with my thoughts, witness them without judging them, and allowing them to pass, the more I was able to find a real sense of calm and a connection to something deeper.
It is my personal view that we are all spiritual beings having a human experience, but that there is something about the physical realm that we inhabit once we’re born that is dense in its energetic charge, and its so easy to become so deeply identified with our bodies, our brains, and the thoughts and emotions they produce that can be a mix of cognitive thought and simple animal instinct. For me, the practice of meditation has allowed me to disentangle myself a bit from this deeply entrenched relationship to the physical world and my own thoughts about it, and given me some space where I can just exist in a space of stillness and calm, at one with the divine energy that makes up our reality.
Another spiritual practice that has become more important to me as I’ve delved deeper into my spiritual journey is one that connects me to my culture and my ancestors. Although I wasn’t really raised in any spiritual tradition or subscribe specifically to any one faith even as of now, I was always exposed to Buddhism and Shintoism from a young age being half-Japanese and born in Japan. Even most Japanese people would say they’re not religious, but Buddhist and Shinto practices are so deeply engrained in Japanese culture that they are apart of daily life.
I find great beauty and meaning in these spiritual traditions that my ancestors have practiced for thousands of years, and adopting some of these beliefs and practices in my daily life has helped me feel, not only a deeper connection to my culture, but to this belief that there are sacred things in this life and that we are all connected in this reality. In addition to visiting sacred places like shrines and temples around Japan, I also have a small alter in my home that I pray to every morning.
In the shinto tradition, small wooden amulets that symbolize the gods are placed on an alter, and we make offerings and pray to the alter every morning. This simple habit allows me a brief moment to express gratitude for all the blessings that I have been given in life, as well as to express my hopes and dreams for my future. Although I might not necessarily believe that there are literal gods inhabiting the wooden plaques in my apartment, this practice is a small reminder that this life is special, has meaning, and it’s up to me to bring this meaning and purpose to it. And that makes the experience of daily life a little bit better.
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Jeju: An Island Escape
Korea only being a quick 2 hour flight away from Tokyo, it’s an easy and popular destination for a lot of people that live in Japan. I’ve been to Seoul 3 times, and each time I found myself getting a more nuanced view of what Korea is like beyond what I see in Korean dramas and movies (which I’ve been known to binge from time to time). Having shared a long history (most of it tumultuous) with Japan, there are a lot of similarities between the cultures and the languages. But the more I visit, the more I’ve been able to experience the rich culture, and this time visiting Jeju Island, I got to see another, more relaxed side of South Korea.
I have a group of friends in Tokyo that, like me, really love to eat so we made a dining group that meets around once a month to discover a new restaurant or cuisine that we wouldn’t normally go to. This time, we decided to make a whole international trip out of it. One member of the group is half-Korean and his grandmother was gracious enough to let us stay in her home in Jeju, so we jumped at the opportunity to go for a little escape from Tokyo.
There’s something about visiting Korea that doesn’t even feel like I’m leaving the country it being so close, and this time felt even more so. On a clear day, they say you can see Jeju Island from Kyushu. I always feel a sense of reassurance and ease when I’ve visited Korea, and this time was no different. I think there’s also something about visiting an island destination that immediately puts me in a relaxed state of mind.
Seogwipo, Jeju
Although it was already late October, it was quite warm when we landed. We rented a couple cars and drove from Jeju City to Seogwipo, a smaller city on the opposite side of the island where our accommodations were. My first impression as soon as we got out of the main city was how lush and green the landscape was with winding roads through near mystical forests, and it felt almost enchanted. I was excited for what the week had in store.
We got really lucky with weather on the first day with beautiful sunny blue skies. We walked to our first meal of the day, a family-run blowfish hotpot restaurant. It was delicious, and the waiter was really hot. There’s something about young Korean men, maybe because they’re all required to do military service, but they’re all very fit and take good care of their appearance, or that’s my impression at least.
After lunch, we walked towards the harbor and visited Cheonjiyeon Falls, a beautiful waterfall in the middle of a lush green park. Although it’s walking distance from the main part of the town, it feels like you’re deep in nature, and it was a nice introduction to the natural beauty Jeju has to offer. After the waterfall, we walked towards the coast and across a bridge that takes you to a small nature reserve. The view out to sea and of the volcanic rock coastline was breathtaking.
That afternoon, we walked around the town and explored the local market, as well as stocked up on some Korean skincare goods at Olive Young. I wasn’t aware of this store, but my friends were well versed and introduced me to all the must-haves. They have literally anything you could think of, and I was overwhelmed with the selection. I stuck to what I knew and got a bunch of face masks calm and hydrate my skin.
Later that night, we went to a boiled pork restaurant run by a family friend of our host. She had a very outgoing personality, which it seems like a lot of people in Jeju had, and she even spoke some Japanese. She colorfully explained to us the best way to eat the boiled pork, and it was definitely a unique experience. Although I liked it, some of the cuts of pork were very fatty, and still had a thick layer of gelatinous skin on it which I wasn’t a huge fan of.
After dinner, we stopped by an adorable café that turns into a wine bar at night. While my friends bonded with the owner over wine, I indulged in some blackberry cheesecake and local herbal tea which was delicious. I started to get tired and headed back to the apartment early, doing one of my face masks before heading to bed.
The next day was kind of rainy and gray in the morning so we had a bit of a lazy start before heading to lunch which was chilled noodles and BBQ pork. (So much meat!) Although there were only six of us, we probably ordered enough to feed 10 and ate almost everything. Since we rented two cars and had a lot of different options of activities, after lunch we decided to split up and do the activity that we found more interesting. Me and two others decided to go to Yakcheonsa Temple, a Buddhist temple about 20min drive away.
Anytime I visit somewhere new, I love to visit spiritual places, no matter what kind of philosophy they might be apart of. Korea being a majority Christian country, there were churches everywhere, but I was excited to find a Buddhist temple which is more my vibe. Compared to a lot of Buddhist temples in Japan, this one was relatively new, and very colorful both on the exterior and interior.
Japanese temples tend to me more austere and understated, focusing on the materials and the craftsmanship of the building, while this temple was ornately painted in vibrant colors all over the place. Still, you could see the mutual influences Korea, China, and Japan had on each other by the fundamental design principles employed in the architecture, and it was beautiful in it’s own way. We explored the multiple levels, looking at the frescoes that illustrated the life of the temple’s founder, and wandered through the surrounding gardens before moving onto our next stop.
Not too far away from the temple, there’s a lookout point on the coast that’s on a pebble beach surrounded by volcanic rock formations. By this time the sun had come out, and we ventured along the beach to explore. The beach being entirely rocks and pebbles, it was really hard to walk and maintain balance, and you could easily sprain an ankle if you’re not careful. It was windy, but there was something about the coast that felt magical. I think because volanic rock comes from deep inside the earth, they must hold a lot of power, and that power is palpable in Jeju.
Later in the afternoon, we reunited with our friends at the Bonte Museum which houses both historical Korean art and artifacts as well as more contemporary international artists like Yayoi Kusama. I finally got to see one of her famous installations, The Infinity Room, and was mesmerized by the infiniate lights and mirrors. It really makes you feel like you’re floating out in space, and it allowed me a little moment of reflection, and how art can make us experience things that can’t be explained in words.
While wandering through the rest of the exhibits, we stumbled upon an installation piece that really moved me. It was an immersive experience that took up an entire room, and there was a sculpture of a lone tree that had projection mapping and sound that brought it to life. It illustrated the cycle of life from birth, to growth and maturation, juxtaposed with images and videos from the artist’s life, and ultimately ended in the death of the tree and something that resonated with me as ascension into a higher dimension. It really showed the fleeting nature of like and how ephemeral time is, and it really made me grateful for my own life and experiences, and made me appreciate the present moment.
The next day was rainy and gray, so one friend and I decided to book massages on the other side of the island. It was a bit of a drive, but it was nice to see the lush landscape throughout different parts of the island. The spa itself was near the coast and had a nice view overlooking the water. The massage itself was great, and I felt so relaxed. On the way back home, we stopped by an outlet mall and I got some new yoga wear and gifts for my baby nephew.
Another reason for this trip was to go to a beauty clinic and get some treatments done. Korea is well known, especially in Japan, for having the best (and very affordable) beauty treatments in Asia. After another delicious local lunch, we headed off to our afternoon at the clinic. I got botox, which I’ve done many times before, as well as a fat-dissolving injection under my chin, and a skin booster that contains salmon DNA that is supposed to induce collagen production and improve your skin’s appearance. It was the most painful experience of my life, but the results were worth it.
Since Jeju is well known for it’s nature, I really wanted to do more nature activities and visit some well known natural spots, but because of weather and the other activities that we prioritized, the last day was the only time we had. Luckily, there was a well known nature trail very close to where we were staying, and it did not disappoint. Two of us took a taxi out to one of the furthest points along the trail, and started back towards the town on the trail. Almost immediately we were greeted with sweeping views of the coastline and volcanic cliffs surrounded by lush nature. The trail itself wasn’t too challenging and was the perfect dose of fresh sea air. It’s times like this that I truly feel grateful to be alive and to be where I am, and I know I will be back to experience more.
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Recognizing growth & celebrating small wins
Something really occurred to me recently that I felt I really had to recognize and celebrate. Since I first embarked on my spiritual journey more than 7 years ago, there have been many ups and downs in my internal and external life. There were times where I felt I made a lot of progress and things were going well, and then there would be some setback that would make me feel like I was regressing to a place where I thought I had graduated from. But overall, there was progress. I would take two or three steps forward, and then maybe one step back. But in those times that I was taking a step back, it was so easy to beat myself up, get weighed down by whatever was bothering me, and lose sight of the progress I was making.
My spiritual journey began from a place of true pain and suffering. I was engaging in unhealthy behaviors to cope with what I was feeling, or to completely avoid what I was feeling, and it got to a point where I knew I had to make a change if I was going to survive. Since then, it’s been a continuous ebb and flow of progress and regression, but ultimately in the direction of positive change. As I continually cut out toxic behaviors and break negative thought patterns that are holding me back, it feels like I’m unlocking new levels in the video game of life. But each level came with new challenges that were ultimately about me confronting myself, my beliefs, my thoughts, and my emotions.
In those times that I let the negative thoughts and feelings get the better of me, sometimes I would be helpless. I could easily stay in bed all day, or lie on the sofa for hours binge watching TV, ignoring other responsibilities because they just felt like too much to handle. I would wake up with a tight feeling in my chest, anxious before I even fully woke up, and the entire stretch of the day in front of me just felt like too much to bear. Especially in my current life situation where I don’t have a regular office job and a lot of what I do is dependent on me taking initiative and doing things myself, it was all to easy to shirk the commitments I had made to myself and just zone out.
But this could easily become a negative feedback loop. I would feel anxious because there’s so much I could do, but the possibilities and potential would feel overwhelming, and my mind would go to a place where I was paralyzed to make a decision to do anything, so instead I would do nothing. But the fact that I was doing nothing made me feel like I was wasting precious time, that I was squandering an opportunity, and the fact that I’m not making any real progress on a professional front is because I just don’t have what it takes. I’m not smart enough. I’m not creative enough. I don’t have good ideas, and I can’t execute the ones I have.
But none of this is true. These are self-sabotaging lies that my mind was telling itself, and I knew it was my job to continually question these thoughts and beliefs, witness them without identifying with them, and ultimately letting them pass through. With this and other tactics that I have honed in my self-care arsenal like meditation and journaling, I gradually was able to deal with these thoughts in a more positive way where I would acknowledge, but not identify, with them, and then let them go.
And over time, I began to notice the positive changes. I recently had one of those mornings where I woke up with that anxiety, and the old self-limiting thoughts started to creep back in, but with the practices that I had been developing and putting to use, I was able to pull myself back off that ledge, and move on with my day. And when we have those moments of recognition like, “wow, hey I’ve really changed,” it’s so important to take a moment to pause and celebrate that. Even just a few months ago, waking up in one of those states would have led me to a decision that would have derailed my entire day. But not anymore.
Now, I’m able to use what I’ve learned, honor my past self for doing the hard work that has gotten me here, and continue to welcome the lessons that life has to offer in reaching my true potential. It’s important not to judge my past self for how he reacted. He did was he could in the moment with what he had available to him, and he survived so that I could thrive. And this doesn’t mean that I won’t have those dark days sometime in the future. And that’s okay. Like any real meaningful progress, it’s measured in small increments, small wins. But really recognize and celebrate when you have those small wins. You’re worth it.
Summer romance in Shimoda
Not long after my last trip to Nagano, less than a week in fact, I decided to plan another trip to visit my parents in Kansai, and then to the beautiful seaside town of Shimoda. My partner, who currently lives in Europe, was visiting me for a month, and his one request was a trip to the sea. After spending a few nights at my family’s home in Kansai enjoying my stepmother’s cooking and cooling off in the pool, we headed back towards Tokyo to start our weekend beach trip. We took the shinkansen from Osaka to Atami, a beachside vacation town that had its heyday in the late 80’s, and rented a car to drive down the coast of the Izu Peninsula to our ultimate destination of Shimoda. The drive is beautiful with winding roads with sweeping views of the sea, and the fresh sea salt breeze and immediately melts away any stress.
Before we set off on our journey south, we stopped at the Atami Museum of Art which houses a vast collection and array of traditional Japanese art and crafts. The museum itself is an interesting piece of architecture that’s built into the hillside with panoramic views of the sea from nearly every vantage point. We leisurely walked through the galleries appreciating the tradition and history steeped in each piece, and took some time in the surrounding gardens to enjoy some matcha and Japanese sweets. Anywhere I go, I always love visiting art museums. I think there’s no better way to really see what a culture values, and to experience their point of view through beautiful works of art. And I feel so proud to be from an ancient culture that has a very rich and beautiful artistic heritage.
After getting our dose of culture for the day, we finally set off on the two hour drive down to the tip of the peninsula. The drive was very easy and enjoyable, and the time passed quite quickly. We arrived at our destination just as the sun was beginning to set, and we the the beautiful golden hour light as we pulled into our accommodations. I found a cosy looking villa on AirBnB that had an outdoor sauna, and I thought it was perfect for a romantic weekend getaway. It felt so private and warm, it was exactly what we needed after spending so much time with friends and family. Before heading out for dinner at a local seafood spot, we cranked up the sauna so it would be ready for us when we got back.
As a seaside town, Shimoda, as well as the larger region, is known for their seafood, and the restaurant we chose for dinner did not dissapoint. From shrimp to fresh abalone, fried fish, and sashimi, we feasted on the freshest, most delicious local seafood prepared only in the way you can enjoy in Japan. Although the restaurant was not far, it was off in a secluded part of town on the edge of the sea, and it felt so dark and remote. After enjoying a beautiful meal, we returned to our villa to fully relax and enjoy the sauna before getting a delightfully restful night of sleep.
We woke up to a beautiful sunny morning, and it was perfect for a day at the beach. After getting ready, we drove out to Kisami Ohama and enjoyed a healthy lunch based on Chinese herbal recipes run by very cute and friendly woman just next to the beach. After lunch we laid in the sun, stood in the water fighting against the strong waves, and explored the rock caves surrounding the area. Although it was still very warm, there was nearly no one else at the beach and it felt like we had it to ourselves. I don’t know what it is about being next to a large body of water, but there is something so calming about it, and something that reminds me of how small I am in this world.
After a few hours at the beach, we drove to some nearby attractions like a cave, some sand dunes, and an outlook. Being on the most southern tip of this big peninsula and looking out over the cliffs across the ocean, it really feels like you’re on the edge of the earth. For thousands of miles, aside from a few tiny coastal islands, there’s just vast ocean. It’s intimidating and somewhat frightening, but exciting. We finally reached the final outlook point as the sun was setting and it was beginning to get dark, but there was something so fun about running through the trails and amongst the rocks with the man I love, making our way to the cliffs where we shared a special moment just appreciating each other’s presence. It’s moments like this that make me so grateful for what I have in my life.
Escaping to the mountains of Nagano
I consider myself so lucky that I have a great group of friends to travel with, and especially in the summer, we like to organize trips over long weekends to get away from the city and completely unplug. A couple weeks ago, we went to my friend’s family vacation home in the Kiso Valley in western Nagano prefecture. I had just finished a two week long pop-up shop for my brand in Tokyo and I was ready to take a well deserved break. It was a beautiful weekend filled with laughter and surrounded by beautiful lush nature.
Although the drive should have only taken about 3 hours, because it was a long weekend and traffic was heavy, we didn’t arrive until nearly 8 hours after I had left my apartment in the morning. When we finally arrived though, I wasn’t disappointed. The house was tucked away in the mountains surrounded by forest, and it was completely quiet. We arrived right as the sun was setting, and the sky had a beautiful glow that cast a beautiful warm hue on the surroundings.
The house itself was also beautiful. It was originally built by my friend’s grandfather and was later renovated by her father and now used as a vacation home shared amongst their relatives. You can tell great care went into the design of the house which felt simple and modern, but warm and inviting. Kiso Valley is known for its hinoki (Japanese cypress) production, and the house was a great example of beautiful wooden interiors. My favorite part was the deep hinoki bath that envelops you in its beautiful natural scent while bathing.
It being the tail-end of summer, the weather was still hot and humid, but being up in the mountains, Kiso was much cooler and comfortable. Our first morning, we went to visit Naraijuku, an Edo-era post town along the main route taken from Tokyo to Kyoto during the time. The town is beautifully preserved with its original charm with dark wooden buildings flanking the main road. The area is known for traditional Japanese wooden lacquer ware, and many shops were selling the traditional crafts. It was raining on and off while we walked around the little town, and it felt so fresh and atmospheric.
After having lunch in the town, we made our way to Nezame, a beautiful ravine flanked by rocks and cliffs with a small shrine at the very top. We were able to climb down to the rock formations and climb around, taking in the view from different vantage points. Having worked up a bit of a sweat climbing over the rocks, it would have been a perfect spot for a cool dip, but unfortunately swimming is prohibited. When I visit natural spots like this that were formed by the elements over thousands of years, I’m reminded of the span of time, and the great power nature has to transform things little by little, or all at once.
Getting outside of the city and spending time in nature, especially in the countryside of Japan, I feel like I get to truly refresh my mind and my spirit. The pace of life is much slower, and there’s no sense of urgency or the little stressors that we accept as part of daily life in a big city. There’s also a charm that can only be felt in these little towns, where it seems as if time has frozen, and the local people warmly greet you and welcome you into their lives, even if only for a short moment. Sadly, with population decline, places like these are slowly dying out, and only areas with a tourist draw are surviving. It makes me feel even luckier that I am able to experience it as it is now.
At my friend’s home in which we were staying for the weekend, there is a large round table in the dining room that we would gather around at different times in the day, sharing meals, planning the day, or sitting quietly together while we each work on our own activities. At night, after sharing a meal that we would all contribute to in some way, we would play games and talk. These are the moments that make trips like these truly special. As adults, the amount of time we can contribute to friendships inevitably gets chipped away, with jobs, partners, the prospect of children, and other family responsibilities ultimately taking up our attention. So when I have this time with my friends where we’re able to really connect, spend quality time with each other, continue to learn more about each other, share stories of our lives before we met, and talk about the future, I really cherish it. Growing up, I was always lucky to have a really good group of friends, and it is to them I owe a great deal of my happiness in life.
As Nagano is famous for soba (buckwheat noodles), we decided to participate in a soba-making class one day. From watching many cooking shows, the way in which it is made doesn’t differ too much from how the Italians make pasta, aside from the kind of wheat used, and some other ingredients. The class was lead by a tiny old Japanese woman who has undoubtably been making soba by hand for decades, probably as her ancestors did, and it was such a beautiful experience to learn the techniques from her. She made it look effortless as her small, withered hands handled the dough, gracefully rolling it out as flat as a sheet of paper, over and over. When I tried my own hand at it, I tore the dough and got it tangled up around the rolling pin. When it came time to cut the dough into noodles, my perfectionist side kicked in, and I was concentrating so hard that I ended up pushing too hard, making all the dough stick together. In the end, the kind old woman helped me correct my mistakes, and in the end we ended up with something resembling noodles. The best part of the class was when it was over and we could eat the soba we had just painstakingly made by hand. It was a beautiful, sunny day and we ate outside under a tent, with meadows and forest as far as the eye could see. It was a truly perfect summer day.
Later that afternoon, with the threat of the weather turning on us for the worse, we hurried to another local area that was famous for a long ravine that featured many waterfalls and rapids. Although it was gray and raining slightly, it was nice enough that we could bike up along the ravine through the forest towards the waterfalls. The air was fresh and brisk, and felt amazing with the natural scent of the forest wafting by as we biked. Every turn offered up even more beautiful views of crystal clear water flowing over volcanic rocks that had been formed over centuries. Once we got to one of the highest points, we got off the bikes and walked down to the rivers edge to feel the crisp water. Although it was still mid-September, the water was freezing cold. A few of us stripped down to our underwear and jumped in for a refreshing dip. After we continued on, there was a footpath through the woods that went up to the largest waterfall, and we braved the steep climb and slippery rocks. There’s something sacred and other-worldly about waterfalls, like they could be portals to another reality or another realm. As the sun was beginning to set, we took one final look at the waterfall before we set back down the path onto enjoy our last night in Nagano.
After stopping for dinner at a local yakiniku restaurant, we arrived home to relax and enjoy each other’s company one last night before we had to leave the next morning. As is customary during summer in Japan, we bought a huge pack of fireworks and sparklers, and set them off in the front yard, bringing back memories of my childhood when I would visit my grandparents in Japan during the summers. What is it about fire and light that excites us? It’s as if it satisfies some primal desire from our hunter gatherer days that has stowed away in our DNA. We had another fun night filled with laughter and conversation.
The last morning after cleaning up the house and getting our luggage loaded up in the car, we went to visit my friend’s grandmother who lived nearby. It was such a special experience, knowing my friend only a short couple of years, to meet her grandmother and share this special moment together. We can learn so much about people by meeting their family members, and it shows so much of how they formed as people. Her grandmother was so warm and welcoming, and sent us on our way with some fresh local corn that she had gotten for us earlier that day. As we said goodbye to her, we all had a moment of recognizing the fleeting nature of time, and recognizing the importance of cherishing the moments we have with the ones we love, because we don’t know how much longer they, or we will be around. But that’s what makes life beautiful.
A spiritual journey through Mexico
Although it wasn’t my first time to Mexico, the last time I came was on a family vacation when I was in elementary school to Puerto Vallarta where we hardly left the resort, so this very much felt like a new experience for me. This trip was also special because it was supposed to happen in the spring of 2020 after I finished business school, but, well… you know what happened. Needless to say, it was long awaited, and I couldn’t wait to actually experience Mexican culture.
Although it wasn’t my first time to Mexico, the last time I came was on a family vacation when I was in elementary school to Puerto Vallarta where we hardly left the resort, so this very much felt like a new experience for me. This trip was also special because it was supposed to happen in the spring of 2020 after I finished business school, but, well… you know what happened. Needless to say, it was long awaited, and I couldn’t wait to actually experience Mexican culture.
My first stop was Oaxaca, and it immediately struck me as a charming and historic city with rich cultural roots. The city is built on a grid, with most buildings being only one or two stories. I had the privilege of staying at Casa Oaxaca, a quaint and relaxed boutique hotel that was historically a private home. I love the way the building was centered around a courtyard of which each of the suites is situated, encouraging interactions with other guests and the staff who were extremely friendly—one even spoke a little bit of Japanese.
The first day of sightseeing started with a visit to Monté Alban, a mountaintop site with Zapotec ruins. I especially love visiting places of cultural significance especially when they have some ritualistic or spiritual connotation. When I quiet my mind and really focus on my surroundings, I try to tap into the energy that can be felt there and try to imagine the lives of the people who built this place and lived here. Did they think about the things that I think about now? What were their hopes and dreams? With the clouds rolling over the mountain and a light rain, it felt especially magical.
After the Zapotec ruins was lunch in the countryside at a place that serves caldo de piedra or stone broth. It’s a delicious soup of local seafood and herbs in a broth that is heated by dropping a hot stone directly into a handmade bowl that contains the soup. As soon as the stone drops in, it immediately starts boiling and cooks the soup to perfection. The owner of the shop explained that the soup originated with the indigenous population and pre-dates Spanish colonialism. I find it beautiful how these traditions are maintained and passed from generation to generation through food, which I think can be such a spiritual practice.
Next was a visit to Hierve el Agua, a beautiful nature reserve with naturally occurring springs that visitors can swim in. It’s high in the mountains and took quite a long bumpy drive on unpaved roads to get to, but the views were worth it. Although it is a tourist attraction, it was surrounded by natural beauty, and allowed me to feel connected to nature and remember how small I am in the world. I could also see fields of agave plants on the mountain sides that were being grown and harvested to make mezcal.
The following day, I visited Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, the cathedral located in the center of the city. Because of a wedding, I was unable to explore the interior of the cathedral in depth, but from what I saw it was BEAUTIFUL. From the outside, it isn’t overly ornate or intricate, but the interior of the main chamber was extremely opulent and decorative. Although I don’t subscribe to any particular religion, I love visiting spiritual places of all kinds because these places really hold a lot of energy that is palpable, and no matter what people believe, I know we are all revering the same divine source that animates all of life, and the beauty and care people put into this reverence moves me everytime.
My last dinner in Oaxaca was at Criollo, a modern take on Oaxacan cuisine produced by Chef Enrique Olvera, and was probably the best meal of the trip. The ambience was relaxed but intentional, with the space blending interior and exterior spaces in a seamless way that made me feel like I was visiting someone's home. The meal was delicious and featured locally sourced ingredients and dishes steeped in local tradition, like molé. I think this was my first introduction to real molé, and you can taste the rich culture and history in the complex and intriguing flavors.
My next stop was Mexico City, and I was surprised by how big it was. Coming from Tokyo and having lived in New York for 10 years, I am very familiar with the feeling of being in a big city, but I was impressed with the expanse of Mexico’s capital. It’s also a very beautiful city that mixes modern urban developments with Spanish colonial influence all on top of an ancient Aztec city. The thing I find most beautiful about Mexico is its melding of past and present, indigenous and colonial, all resulting in a colorful and rich cultural landscape of which I know I have only scratched the surface.
I stayed at Casa Polanco, a beautiful boutique hotel in the high-end neighborhood of Polanco, which I learned was historically a Polish neighborhood, hence the name. It was one of the best hotels I have stayed at in recent history. Their attention to detail from the service to decor to amenities was really top notch. The staff was extremely friendly and made me feel very much at home. This hotel was also historically a private home and combined with a modern building to create the hotel that it is today. I only wish I had more time to enjoy all the amenities like the gym & spa. If you have the opportunity to stay here in Mexico City, I highly recommend it. You won’t be disappointed.
Being a Saturday night, I decided to check out the local nightlife and see what the city had to offer. I considered going to an area with several gay bars, but given that I don’t drink alcohol, I thought it might feel awkward to try and socialize with the local gays while sipping a sparkling water. (It was also quite far from my hotel.) Instead, I found a DJ event at a club much closer to my hotel, Club Fünk, located in nearby Condesa. The party was called Boyanza, seemed queer-friendly, and the music sounded like it might be my taste. I was not disappointed. The space itself was pretty cool with interesting lighting design around the DJ booth, and the music was very danceable, mixing house, techno, and other electronic music. Although I didn’t meet anyone, the vibes were good and I felt completely comfortable dancing and enjoying myself.
The next day was a visit to the Metropolitan Cathedral and the ruins at Zocalo. Again, the cathedral was very beautiful both inside and out, and you can really feel the history contained in its walls. What was even more amazing were the ruins of Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital before the arrival of the Spanish. To imagine what lies beneath the modern city of Mexico City and what it would have looked like before the Spanish arrived is amazing. It’s a shame how much must have been destroyed during the colonial era, but I was so glad that remnants of this ancient culture survive to this day despite the horrors of colonialism.
Outside the cathedral were indigenous shamans offering cleansing rituals, and I was immediately drawn to one of them and participated in the experience. Anytime I am able to participate in a new spiritual ritual, especially one that doesn’t come from a Judeo-Christian background, I am always very eager and excited. The ritual consisted of the shaman enveloping me with the smoke from some burning herbs while he chanted, and then cleansing my hands with some kind of herbal water that smelled fresh and citrusy. I wish I knew more about the significance of the ritual and the beliefs of this shamanic tradition, but either way I was grateful for the experience.
The next place of significance I had the privilege of visiting was Frida Kahlo’s house. Having always been interested in art for its own sake as well as as a spiritual practice, I was so happy to be visiting the home of such a significant and celebrated artist. My main point of context for Frida Kahlo was the movie about her life in which she was played by Selma Hayak, and I was so glad to learn more about her life in the place where she spent so much of her time. Although it seems she suffered a great deal in her life, her work has always impacted me as deeply thoughtful, spiritual, reflective, and of course beautiful. Walking through the rooms of where she created so much beauty, I could feel her spirit and was so grateful for the experience.
The next day, I visited Teotihuacan and was so impressed by the expansive complex of pyramids and courtyards that make up this special place. What amazes me about these places is their exact alignment to celestial bodies, and how much knowledge and expertise it took to build these places without modern technology. When I was in college, I had a phase of being obsessed with Ancient Aliens on the History Channel, and places like this were mentioned many times. Although I’m not sure if I believe the alien conspiracies, finally being able to visit this place in person was so impactful, like being transported back hundreds of years.
As food has always been a central part of my travels, I always try to go to the most renowned restaurants anywhere I visit, so this trip would not have been complete without a visit to Pujol. As this trip was years in the making, I felt a lot of anticipation for finally being able to visit, and experience what is supposed to be the height of Mexican cuisine. My first impression is that the decor is very comfortable and modern, but inviting. Although the overall experience was good and I even got to meet Chef Olvera, it wasn’t the best meal of the trip. I’m sure there is a reason they have Michelin stars and have been named one of the best restaurants in North America, but it may be based more on past reputation than the current offering. I don’t think I would go back, but I definitely don’t regret dining there.
The last stop of my journey was the Mayan Riviera where I stayed at the Rosewood Mayakoba. Tucked away in a jungle of mangroves along the beach, this expansive resort felt very comfortable from the beginning. Each room feels like its own little villa and has a sense of privacy while still being accessible to all the amenities contained within the resort. I immediately headed to the beach area and lounged in the sun. The water was crystal clear blue and the perfect temperature for cooling off and floating leisurely, and I felt immense gratitude for being in such a beautiful place. I didn’t have a lot of time to spend around the resort because of a tight schedule, but I would love to go back some day and fully unplug.
The final day of the trip, I visited Chichen Itza, the most well preserved and in my opinion most beautiful pre-colonial place of cultural significance. Although it was extremely hot and there were many other tourists, the beauty and grandeur of the temple complex was almost breathtaking, and I could really feel the immense energy of this sacred place. There were so many different kinds of buildings used for many different purposes that gave a sense of what life must have been like back when this ancient society was thriving, and again I tried to center myself and drop into this immense sacred energy.
Visiting such a beautiful and complex place like Mexico was so much more than I expected before I went. Mexico being a neighbor to the US where I spent most of my life, I thought there would be more similarities, but I was pleasantly surprised to see a much more rich and diverse culture that has better preserved its indigenous origins. Being able to visit so many historic and sacred places built throughout time, I’m reminded of the expanse of time and space in the universe, that there are many significant moments in time throughout the world and throughout history, but these places and moments were all created by other humans like me, just going about their lives as spiritual beings having a human experience. I most definitely want to return to Mexico someday and see more of this incredible place.